Quick answer: apply curl cream to soaking-wet hair after your conditioner or leave-in. Rake or glaze it through in sections, scrunch upwards, then air-dry or diffuse without touching your curls until they're completely dry. Use a pea-sized amount for fine waves and more for tighter curls and coils. Curl cream gives soft, touchable definition; for more hold, layer a stronger cream or a light-hold spray on top.
Curl cream is the step most curly routines are built around, but it's also the one people most often get wrong: too much, too little, or applied to hair that's already half dry. Here's how to choose the right one and use it for defined, frizz-free curls.
What does curl cream do?
- Defines. It encourages strands to group together into curl clumps, so curls look more defined and less fuzzy.
- Moisturises. Most curl creams contain oils and butters, so they hydrate as they style.
- Controls frizz. By smoothing the cuticle and holding moisture in, curl cream keeps frizz down, even in humidity.
- Adds soft hold. Unlike gel, a curl cream dries soft and touchable, never crunchy.
How to use curl cream, step by step
- Start with soaking-wet hair. Apply in the shower or straight after, before you towel-dry. Water helps the cream spread evenly and form clumps.
- Add a leave-in first if your curls are dry. Leave-In Detangling Hair Milk moisturises and detangles, giving the cream a smooth base.
- Work in sections. Rub Curls Defining Hair Cream between your palms and glaze it over each section, or rake it through with your fingers for more definition.
- Scrunch. Cup your curls and scrunch upwards towards the scalp to encourage the curl pattern. You should hear a slight squelch.
- Remove excess water gently. Scrunch with a cotton T-shirt or microfibre towel rather than a rough towel.
- Dry hands-off. Air-dry or diffuse on low heat, and don't touch your curls until they're 100% dry, or they'll frizz.
- Finish. Once dry, scrunch a drop of Bouncy Curls Hair Oil through to soften and add shine.
How much curl cream should I use?
It depends on your curl type and density. As a starting point: a pea to a 10p coin for fine waves, a walnut for curly hair, and more for thick, coily hair. If curls feel greasy or look weighed down, use less; if they're frizzy and undefined, use more or add a leave-in underneath.
The best curl cream for your hair type
Wavy hair (2A to 2C): waves are easily weighed down, so use a small amount on very wet hair and scrunch well. Curls Defining Hair Cream works across all curl types, natural or permed. Our wavy hair routine has more tips.
Curly hair (3A to 3C): Curls Defining Hair Cream defines curls and tames frizz with organic coconut, chia seed and sacha inchi oils, plus pomegranate and rosehip, leaving curls soft, bouncy and touchable.
Coily hair (4A to 4C): coils need more moisture. Layer the leave-in milk, then a generous amount of Curls Defining Hair Cream, and seal with Bouncy Curls Hair Oil.
Thick or coarse curls that need more hold: Shaping Cream is a strong-hold cream that shapes and controls medium and coarse waves and curls for a defined, longer-lasting result.
Not sure of your curl type? Read our curl type guide.
Curl cream for men: what barbers use
Curl cream works just as well on short curls, tapers and fades. Use a small amount on wet hair, scrunch and leave to dry for natural, defined curls without the crunch of gel.
At MGC Coventry, the barbershop owned by award-winning barber Connor Evans, Curls Defining Hair Cream is the go-to for curly cuts. For these tapered curls, Reece cut and styled with Curls Defining Hair Cream:
Watch Reece's tapered curls on Instagram
And for this fade, Gav Johal paired Curls Defining Hair Cream with Leave-In Hair Detangler:
Watch Gav Johal's fade with curls on Instagram
Great curls start in the wash. In this curly hair routine, MGC washed with Energizing Shampoo, a gentle shampoo for everyday use, then used Leave-In Detangling Hair Milk to moisturise and detangle before styling. If you prefer a sulphate-free wash, try Pure Mild Shampoo or Melted Energizing Shampoo.
Watch MGC's curly hair routine on Instagram
For more styling ideas, read our guide to the best hair products for men or shop men's hair products.
Curl cream vs gel vs mousse
- Curl cream: moisture and soft definition. Best for dry curls and anyone who wants touchable, natural-looking curls.
- Gel: stronger hold and longer-lasting definition, but it dries into a firm "cast" that you scrunch out once dry.
- Mousse: lightweight hold and volume. Good for fine waves that a cream would weigh down.
Many curly routines layer them: cream first for moisture, then a holding product on top. For a lighter way to add hold and fight humidity, mist curls with Light Hold Fixative Hair Spray once styled, which also refreshes curls between washes.
Common curl cream mistakes
- Applying to damp or dry hair. Apply to soaking-wet hair for the best clumps.
- Using too much. Start small and build up.
- Touching curls while they dry. This breaks up clumps and causes frizz.
- Skipping moisture. If curls are dry, the cream can't do its job alone. Wash with a gentle shampoo like Pure Mild Shampoo and condition with the Curly Hair Detangling Mask, which is gentle enough to use every wash.
Frequently asked questions
Do you put curl cream on wet or dry hair?
Wet. Soaking-wet hair gives the most definition. You can use a little on dry hair to refresh second-day curls, ideally after misting with water.
Can you use curl cream every day?
Yes, though most people only need it on wash days, plus a little to refresh in between.
Does curl cream make straight hair curly?
No. Curl cream enhances the natural wave or curl you already have; it can't create curls in straight hair.
Can men use curl cream?
Absolutely. Curls Defining Hair Cream is designed for men and women, and barbers at MGC Coventry use it on curly tapers and fades.
Shop Insight's vegan Elasti-Curl range and the full curls, coils and waves collection.
About the author
Charlotte Read has spent six years in the hair industry with Insight Professional and holds a First Class BSc in Business Management and Marketing. She writes with reference to real salons across social media and the wider Insight community, and draws on the Insight office team, who between them bring over 100 years of combined experience on salon floors.
Where technical expertise is needed, Charlotte consults Lorraine Matic, Head of Insight UK Education, who brings over 38 years of global experience in colour, technique and hair science.