Quick answer: curl types are grouped into wavy (Type 2), curly (Type 3) and coily (Type 4), with each split into A, B and C from loosest to tightest. The difference between curly and coily hair is the shape: curly hair forms rounded loops and ringlets, while coily hair grows in tight coils or zig-zags from the root, with much more shrinkage. To find yours, wash your hair, let it air-dry with no products, and compare the shape it dries into with the descriptions below. Most people have more than one pattern, so choose the one that describes most of your hair.
Wavy vs curly vs coily hair at a glance
| Wavy (Type 2) | Curly (Type 3) | Coily (Type 4) | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Shape | Soft S-bends | Rounded loops, ringlets, corkscrews | Tight coils or Z-shaped zig-zags |
| Where it starts | Usually mid-lengths | Near the root | Right at the scalp |
| Shrinkage | Little | Some | A lot, often 50% or more |
| Main need | Light hydration without weight | Moisture and definition | Maximum moisture and gentle detangling |
| Start with | Leave-In Detangling Hair Milk | Curls Defining Hair Cream | Bouncy Curls Hair Oil |
Not all curls are the same
If your hair feels frizzy one day, flat the next, or never behaves like the routines you see online, there's a good chance you're using products that don't match your natural curl type.
Many people think they have one hair type, only to discover they sit between wavy and curly, or curly and coily, or that their hair has changed over time through age, heat styling, colour or humidity. Understanding your curl type is the first step to building a routine that actually works.
How to find your curl type
The most widely used curl typing system was popularised by stylist Andre Walker in the 1990s. It numbers hair from Type 1 (straight) to Type 4 (coily), with letters A to C showing how loose or tight the pattern is within each type.
- Wash your hair with a gentle shampoo and conditioner.
- Let it air-dry with no styling products, and avoid touching it while it dries.
- Look at the shape your hair dries into and where the wave or curl begins.
- Compare it with the types below.
It's completely normal to have more than one pattern, for example looser waves at the front and tighter curls at the crown. Curl typing is a guide, not a rule.
Curl types chart: 2A to 4C
- 2A: loose, barely-there waves, close to straight.
- 2B: defined S-shaped waves from the mid-lengths.
- 2C: strong S-waves from near the root, sometimes forming loose spirals.
- 3A: large, loose curls.
- 3B: springy ringlets.
- 3C: tight corkscrew curls.
- 4A: small, tightly coiled S-shaped coils.
- 4B: tight Z-shaped coils with sharp angles.
- 4C: the tightest, most densely packed coils.
Type 2: wavy hair (2A, 2B, 2C)
Wavy hair sits between straight and curly and forms a soft S-shape rather than full curls. It often looks straight when wet but wavy when dry, loses definition easily and is weighed down by heavy products.
2A hair
Fine and lightly waved, with a loose S-shape that's easy to straighten and easy to weigh down. Care tip: keep everything light; a leave-in spray or milk is usually enough.
2B hair
More defined waves that start around the mid-lengths, often with frizz at the crown. Care tip: scrunch a little curl cream into damp hair and let it dry without touching.
2C hair
Strong, well-defined waves that start near the root, often with a few loose spirals. Thicker and more prone to frizz. Care tip: treat it like curly hair when it needs moisture, and like wavy hair when it feels weighed down.
Wavy hair typically needs: lightweight hydration, gentle cleansing, and products that enhance movement without build-up.
Type 3: curly hair (3A, 3B, 3C)
Curly hair forms visible loops, ringlets or spirals and has more volume and bounce. Frizz appears quickly without moisture, and the pattern often varies across the head.
3A hair
Large, loose curls with a shiny, well-defined loop, roughly the width of a large marker or wider. 3A curls can drop or stretch out with heavy products. Care tip: use a light leave-in and a small amount of curl cream on damp hair, and avoid brushing once dry.
3B hair
Springy ringlets roughly the width of a marker pen, with more volume and more tendency to frizz than 3A. Care tip: layer moisture: a rich conditioner or mask, a leave-in, then a defining cream to hold the ringlet.
3C hair
Tight corkscrews roughly the width of a pencil, densely packed and full of volume, with noticeable shrinkage. Care tip: detangle only when hair is wet and full of conditioner, and seal moisture in with an oil.
Curly hair typically needs: moisture, definition and frizz control, while keeping curls soft and flexible.
Type 4: coily hair (4A, 4B, 4C)
Coily hair has the tightest pattern and the most shrinkage, which means it looks much shorter dry than it really is. Coils start right at the scalp and the hair feels dry quickly.
4A hair
Small, tightly wound coils with a visible S-shaped pattern. Care tip: a curl cream and oil help coils clump and stay defined.
4B hair
Hair that bends in sharp, Z-shaped angles rather than rounded coils, so the pattern can be less obvious. 4B hair is often fragile at the bends and prone to breakage. Care tip: detangle in small sections with plenty of conditioner, and stretch or define the pattern with a cream.
4C hair
The tightest, most densely packed coils and the most shrinkage; the pattern can be hard to see unless the hair is stretched or defined. Care tip: prioritise moisture at every step, use a pre-wash oil treatment and handle gently.
Coily hair typically needs: consistent hydration, gentle detangling, and routines that support softness and manageability.
Curly vs coily hair: what's the real difference?
Curly hair (Type 3) forms rounded loops and ringlets that you can see clearly, whether the curls are big and loose or tight corkscrews. Coily hair (Type 4) grows in tighter coils or zig-zags from the root, with more shrinkage. Because natural oils travel down a coil less easily than a straighter strand, coily hair tends to need more moisture and gentler handling, especially when detangling.
A simple test: stretch a dry strand and let go. If it springs back into a loop you can fit a finger or pencil through, it's curly. If it springs back into a tight coil or zig-zag much smaller than a pencil, it's coily.
Wavy vs curly hair: how to tell
Wavy hair bends in an S-shape but doesn't loop all the way round, and it often looks straight when wet. Curly hair forms complete loops that hold their shape when wet or dry. If you're somewhere in between (2C or 3A), care for it as curly when it needs moisture and as wavy when it feels weighed down.
Why your curl type matters
Choosing products based on your curl pattern can help you:
- reduce dryness and frizz;
- improve curl definition and softness;
- avoid product overload;
- make your hair easier to manage day to day.
Rather than chasing perfect curls, the goal is healthy, comfortable hair that works with your lifestyle.
Which Insight products suit your curl type?
Insight's vegan Elasti-Curl range is designed for wavy, curly and coily hair. It won four times at the HAIR Awards 2023, including for Pure Mild Shampoo with the Curly Hair Detangling Mask, and for Bouncy Curls Hair Oil. Here's a simple starting point for each type:
- Wavy (2A to 2C): keep it light with Pure Mild Shampoo and Leave-In Detangling Hair Milk, then scrunch in a small amount of Curls Defining Hair Cream for definition. If frizz is your main concern, the Anti-Frizz range also suits looser waves. See our full wavy hair routine.
- Curly (3A to 3C): build in moisture and definition with Pure Mild Shampoo, the Curly Hair Detangling Mask and Curls Defining Hair Cream. For stronger, longer-lasting hold on medium or coarse curls, use Shaping Cream.
- Coily (4A to 4C): go for maximum moisture. Add Bouncy Curls Hair Oil as a pre-wash treatment and to seal in moisture, alongside the mask, leave-in and cream.
If your hair sits between two types, choose the routine that matches how your hair behaves most of the time, and adjust as needed. Browse all our curly and wavy hair products.
Curl type isn't the whole story: your hair porosity (how well your hair absorbs and holds moisture) shapes which products work best, so it's worth reading alongside this guide.
Frequently asked questions
What is 3A hair?
3A hair forms large, loose, well-defined curls, roughly the width of a large marker or wider. It's the loosest curly type and can be weighed down by heavy products.
What is 3B hair?
3B hair forms springy ringlets roughly the width of a marker pen, with plenty of volume and a tendency to frizz.
What is 4B hair?
4B hair bends in sharp Z-shaped angles rather than rounded coils, with lots of shrinkage. It's often fragile at the bends, so it needs gentle detangling and plenty of moisture.
How do I know if my hair is wavy or curly?
Wash and air-dry without any product. If it dries into a soft S-shape that drops out easily, it's wavy (Type 2). If it forms defined ringlets or spirals that hold their shape, it's curly (Type 3).
How do I know if my hair is curly (Type 3) or coily (Type 4)?
Look at the size and shape of the curl when dry. Curly hair forms rounded loops roughly the width of a pencil or wider. Coily hair forms tighter coils or zig-zags smaller than a pencil, starting right at the scalp, and shrinks much more as it dries.
What is coily hair?
Coily hair is Type 4 hair: it grows in tight coils or zig-zag shapes that start at the scalp, with a lot of shrinkage. It's often dense and soft, and it tends to need plenty of moisture and gentle detangling.
What's the difference between 2C and 3A hair?
2C hair is still mostly S-shaped waves, even if some strands form loose spirals. 3A hair forms complete, rounded curls that loop all the way around. If most of your hair forms full loops, you're probably 3A.
Can I have more than one curl type?
Yes. It's very common to have looser curls at the front and tighter ones at the crown, for example. Care for the pattern you have most of, and adjust around the rest.
Does curl type change over time?
It can. Age, hormones, heat styling, colouring and even the weather can loosen or tighten your natural pattern.
Is curly hair dominant or recessive?
Hair texture is influenced by several genes rather than one, so it doesn't follow a simple dominant or recessive pattern. Curly-haired parents can have straight-haired children and vice versa.
Is Insight's curly hair shampoo sulphate-free?
Yes. Pure Mild Shampoo, the shampoo in the Elasti-Curl range, is sulphate-free and vegan, so it cleanses gently without stripping moisture from textured hair.
Ready to start? Explore the Elasti-Curl range and build a routine that works with your curls, not against them.
About the author
Charlotte Read has spent six years in the hair industry with Insight Professional and holds a First Class BSc in Business Management and Marketing. She writes with reference to real salons across social media and the wider Insight community, and draws on the Insight office team, who between them bring over 100 years of combined experience on salon floors.
Where technical expertise is needed, Charlotte consults Lorraine Matic, Head of Insight UK Education, who brings over 38 years of global experience in colour, technique and hair science.