Quick answer: to get pastel pink hair, dilute a bright pigment in a pigment mask rather than applying it neat. Insight colourists mix Enhancing Color Pigments into the Direct Pigments Hair Mask, Insight's "pastelizer": the more mask, the softer the shade. Neon Pink gives pastel pink; Neon Pink with Copper gives a peachy pink; Bright Red gives coral. Pastel only shows on very light blonde or pre-lightened hair, and the tone of your hair is part of the result. Swatch the shade on cotton wool or white paper first, apply to damp hair for a softer result, and keep it with cool rinses and colour-protecting care.
Pastel pink is one of the most requested fashion shades, but it's also the one people get wrong at home, usually by using a bright dye neat and ending up with hot pink. The secret colourists use is simple: dilution. Here's how it works, with real formulas from Insight colourists.
How to get pastel pink: dilute, don't apply neat
A bright pigment applied straight from the tube gives a vivid result. Mix the same pigment into a pigment mask and you control the strength: a little pigment in a lot of mask gives pastel; more pigment gives a stronger shade. The Direct Pigments Hair Mask is made for exactly this. It's a base mask you can mix with any shade for a softer, more natural result, and it boosts hydration as it colours.
"Our pigments are clear, vivid colours, but we also have the mask, our pastelizer, which dilutes them to make the softer shades. A lot of people don't use it. And remember, the hair is part of the formula: canvas plus colour is the end result. So always swatch first; I check mine on cotton wool."
Lorraine Matic, Head of Insight UK Education
Real results and formulas
These looks were all created by Insight colourists with Enhancing Color Pigments and the pigment mask. The lightening steps were done in the salon; the pigment step is the part you can recreate at home on hair that's already light.
Peachy pastel pink: Neon Pink + Copper
- Starting point: very light golden blonde (level 10).
- Mix: Neon Pink and Copper pigments into the pigment mask, adjusted by eye in the bowl until the shade looked right.
- Applied to: damp hair, for a softer pastel that lasts a few washes.
- Time: judged by eye.
The touch of copper takes the pink towards peach and stops it looking cold.
Soft coral pink: Bright Red, diluted
- Starting point: a natural dark blonde (level 6) with lightened lengths.
- Lightened lengths: 20 drops of Bright Red in 200g of pigment mask.
- Darker roots: 10 drops of Bright Red in 50g of pigment mask.
- Time: 20 minutes, then rinsed with water, no shampoo.
Notice how little pigment it takes: a few drops of a bright red in a lot of mask gives a soft coral, not red. Using a stronger mix on the darker roots evens the colour out from root to tip.
Colour: Anastasia Martynova, Loris salon, Krasnodar. Photo: © Lyudmila Panchenko. Via Insight Professional Russia.
Rose-coral: Red + Copper, 1:1 with mask
- Mix: Red and Copper pigments with the pigment mask, 1:1.
- Finish: Liquid Crystals on damp hair before styling, for shine.
A stronger ratio than the pastel formulas gives a richer rose-coral, still softer than neat pigment.
Platinum to pastel pink
On platinum hair, a pink pigment mix gives a clean, soft pastel pink.
The dilution guide
| Mix | Result |
|---|---|
| Pigment neat | Full, vivid shade |
| Pigment and mask, about 1:1 | Rich but softer (rose, coral) |
| A few drops of pigment in a lot of mask | Pastel |
Every head of hair takes colour differently, so start soft and build up. You can always add more pigment; you can't take it away.
Colourists' tips for pastel at home
- Swatch it first. Brush a little of the mix onto cotton wool or white paper to see the true shade before it goes near your hair.
- Remember: canvas plus colour is the end result. Golden or yellow-toned blonde will warm a pink towards peach and turn a diluted blue towards teal. Factor your own hair's tone into the shade you mix.
- Then do a test strand. Try it on a hidden section and time it.
- Damp or dry? On damp hair the colour goes on softer and more pastel and lasts a few washes. On dry hair it's stronger and lasts longer.
- Judge by eye. Pastel is about control. Check the colour as it develops and rinse when it looks right.
- Rinse with water only. Skip shampoo straight after colouring.
- Follow the pack instructions and wear gloves.
What colour does my hair need to be for pastel?
Pastel needs a very light base: platinum, pale blonde or very light golden blonde. On darker blonde or light brown, a pastel mix will barely show, and the yellow underneath can turn pink towards peach. If your hair isn't light enough, ask your colourist to lighten it first; that's not a job for home. See pink hair dye for how pink looks on different starting colours. The same pastelizer method works for icy pastel blue and mint or teal.
How to keep pastel pink
Pastel is subtle, so it fades faster than bright pink. To make it last:
- Wash less and rinse with cool water; use Bodifying Dry Shampoo in between.
- Use colour-protecting Protective Shampoo and Protective Hair Conditioner.
- Refresh with a quick pigment-and-mask application whenever it softens. Because it's semi-permanent, there's no regrowth line to worry about.
Frequently asked questions
Can I get pastel pink without bleach?
Only if your hair is already very light blonde. Pastel won't show on darker hair.
How do I make pink dye more pastel?
Mix it with a pigment mask such as the Direct Pigments Hair Mask, Insight's pastelizer. The more mask, the softer the shade.
Can I mix two pigment shades?
Yes. Colourists mix Neon Pink with Copper for peachy pink, and Red with Copper for rose-coral. Swatch on cotton wool or paper first.
How long does pastel pink last?
Usually a few washes when applied to damp hair, longer on dry hair. It softens gradually with no regrowth line.
Is it vegan?
Yes. Enhancing Color Pigments and the Direct Pigments Hair Mask are vegan, cruelty-free and made in Italy.
About the author
Charlotte Read has spent six years in the hair industry with Insight Professional and holds a First Class BSc in Business Management and Marketing. She writes with reference to real salons across social media and the wider Insight community, and draws on the Insight office team, who between them bring over 100 years of combined experience on salon floors.
Where technical expertise is needed, Charlotte consults Lorraine Matic, Head of Insight UK Education, who brings over 38 years of global experience in colour, technique and hair science.