Quick answer: a scalp derma roller is a small hand-held roller covered in fine micro-needles. Rolled gently over a clean scalp, it massages the skin and helps prepare it to take in a leave-on scalp treatment. Use light pressure, roll in sections in a few directions, apply your scalp lotion straight after, and clean the roller before and after every use. Don't use it on broken, sore or inflamed skin, and never share it. A derma roller isn't a proven hair-loss treatment at home; if you're worried about thinning, see your GP.
What is a derma roller?
A derma roller is a small roller with lots of tiny needles or bristles around a drum. Rolling it over the skin creates a gentle massage and tiny channels at the surface. On the scalp, it's used as part of a scalp-care routine, usually just before applying a lotion or serum.
Insight's Derma Roller is a professional tool for scalp wellness, made for use in the salon and at home. The handle is made from recycled plastic, and it has metal micro-bristles that massage the scalp. Insight designs it to be used with specific scalp treatments, before applying lotions and serums, to help prepare the skin to receive their active ingredients.
What does a derma roller do for your scalp?
- Massages the scalp: many people find it a relaxing, stimulating part of a scalp ritual.
- Stimulates the skin: Insight's roller is designed to stimulate circulation in the skin and support its natural renewal.
- Prepares the scalp for treatment: it helps prime the skin before you apply a leave-on scalp lotion or serum.
Does a derma roller help hair grow?
This is the big question, so here's the honest answer. Clinical studies have looked at microneedling for some types of hair loss, but most were carried out by clinicians, often with deeper needles than home rollers, and usually alongside medical hair-loss treatments. That's very different from using a roller at home, and there isn't good evidence that a home derma roller on its own regrows hair.
We don't sell the Derma Roller as a hair-loss treatment. If you're losing more hair than usual or have patches of thinning, speak to your GP, who can look for the cause and talk you through treatments. You may also find our guides to seasonal hair shedding and menopause hair changes helpful.
How to use a derma roller on your scalp
- Start with a clean scalp. Wash and towel-dry your hair, or use the roller on clean, dry hair.
- Clean the roller. Spray or soak the head in isopropyl alcohol (70%) for a few minutes, then let it air-dry.
- Section your hair so you can see the scalp.
- Roll gently. Using light pressure, roll over each section a few times in different directions: forwards and back, side to side and diagonally. Lift the roller between directions rather than dragging it. It should feel stimulating, not painful.
- Apply your scalp treatment straight after, massaging it in with your fingertips. Use a leave-on scalp lotion made for your scalp's needs, for example the no-rinse Fortifying Hair Treatment for fine, fragile hair, or Purifying Scalp Treatment for a flaky scalp.
- Clean the roller again, let it dry completely and store it in its case.
How often should you use it?
Start gently and not too often, around once a week, and see how your scalp responds. Let any redness settle completely before you use it again. If your salon has given you a routine, follow that.
Who shouldn't use a derma roller?
Don't use a derma roller if your scalp:
- is cut, broken, sunburnt or sore;
- has active spots, an infection, cold sores or a rash;
- is in a flare of psoriasis, eczema or seborrhoeic dermatitis;
- is very sensitive or reactive.
Avoid it on the same day as a colour, bleach or chemical service, and don't use it with strong acids or exfoliants. If you have a skin condition, a bleeding disorder or take blood-thinning medication, check with your GP or pharmacist first.
How to clean and look after your derma roller
- Clean it with isopropyl alcohol before and after every use, then let it air-dry.
- Never share it, even with family.
- Don't touch the needles or let them hit hard surfaces.
- Store it dry in its case.
- Replace it if the needles look bent, blunt or damaged, or if it's no longer comfortable.
Derma rolling as part of a scalp ritual
A derma roller works best as one step in a scalp routine: cleanse with a shampoo chosen for your scalp, roll gently, then apply a leave-on treatment. For more on building a routine, read Japanese head spa at home, scalp scrubs: do you need one? and which Insight shampoo is right for you.
Frequently asked questions
Does derma rolling hurt?
It should feel prickly and stimulating, not painful. If it hurts, you're pressing too hard; stop and use lighter pressure.
Should I use a derma roller on wet or dry hair?
On a clean scalp, either towel-dried or dry. Apply your scalp lotion straight afterwards.
Can I use a derma roller with rosemary oil?
Rolling makes the skin more receptive to what you put on next, so stick to products designed for the scalp and avoid fragranced essential oils, which can irritate. Read what the evidence says about rosemary oil.
Can I use it on my beard?
Our Derma Roller is designed for the scalp. If you want to use a roller on your face or beard area, ask a skin professional first.
Is the Insight Derma Roller sustainable?
The roller is made from recycled plastic, and it's reusable when cleaned and stored properly.
About the author
Charlotte Read has spent six years in the hair industry with Insight Professional and holds a First Class BSc in Business Management and Marketing. She writes with reference to real salons across social media and the wider Insight community, and draws on the Insight office team, who between them bring over 100 years of combined experience on salon floors.
Where technical expertise is needed, Charlotte consults Lorraine Matic, Head of Insight UK Education, who brings over 38 years of global experience in colour, technique and hair science.